New York City and the inspiration it brings

Paul and I and a big, big pigeon

Though Paul and I love to give each other sweet and thoughtful Christmas gifts, this year we decided to spend a few days in New York City instead. It was agreed that we would see a play, roam until our feet were so tired we could roam no more (for both of us, this is one of life’s great pleasures) and deprive ourselves of exactly nothing. This meant oysters and steak, French pastries, hot dogs and espresso martinis. 
Off we went, with but a few plans beyond theater tickets, two dinner reservations and a general determination to roam and dine. What we lacked in plans we made up for in excitement. And we had a few bucks, saved for the occasion. There was a late-night wood-fired oven pizza, a belly-warming bowl of silky, meaty noodles and tapas at a restaurant we have been to again and again. We had great dishes and some fun ones we loved so much that I went home to recreate them.
We arrived in the absolute best way of arriving in New York City: via train, right into Grand Central Terminal. It feels like the proper way to arrive in the city, with soaring, mural-painted ceilings and beautiful architecture behind bustling crowds. The whole scene is so theatrical that it feels like people might burst into song and start a dance number right there, but, because this is real life, they only push past and hurry on their way. I stopped at a bakery in the train station to pick up a box of French pastries, including cream-filled, buttery, airy and chocolatey things to keep in the hotel room. Afternoons and late nights, when we rested with our feet up, we sank our teeth into those sweet confections — indulgence at its best. 

Gimmick-y espresso martini in Midtown

On our first full day, we walked all over Manhattan despite the frigid wind. We were tourists to the core, checking our maps and pointing and marveling at architecture and a great big sculpture of a pigeon. We went on for hours, and just when I began to worry about the numbness in my toes, we looked up and there was the sign for a tapas restaurant we love, a beacon of warmth and comfort for weary and hungry travelers. I drank a glass of sangria that warmed me from the inside out and ordered a bowl of warm Brussels sprouts, complete with chorizo and bread. The sprouts were at once glazed and soft and steamy, with bits of crispiness on the edges. I knew that offering a bite to Paul was most polite, but part of me didn’t want to share. I relented, however, even before the dish went cold.

Pork ragu and pappardelle

There’s a recipe here for my version of those dreamy Brussels sprouts. It’s a simple combination, easy to prepare. Spanish chorizo proves true the age-old adage that everything is made better with sausage. This particular kind of sausage is smoky and fatty, a good bedfellow to the earthy sprouts. Roast up the Brussels sprouts, then add them to the pan with the chorizo, and you’ve got a simple and warm dinner, good with bread or even a bowl of rice. A glass of red wine would be nice, too, and it’ll warm you up, even if you haven’t been traipsing about in the cold. 

Before we went to a celebrity-cast Broadway comedy called “All In,” which was unexpected in the best ways, we stopped at a hotel bar to have a drink. Instead of mere cocktails, we ended up with espresso martinis with a photo of us inlaid in the foam on top. I totally wanted the gimmicky $5 photo image on my drink. The martini was a delight and felt like an important part of being a tourist in New York. 

The fancy dinner we planned was fun but maybe not as great as my expectations. Still, we enjoyed it, because that beautiful space, the company of my husband and the glow of the candle on our table made the evening a good one. Paul is an expert at ordering the best of what any menu has to offer, and so predictably, the pork ragu he requested was the best thing we had all night. The noodles were homemade, the sauce meaty and succulent. My fork found its way to his plate more than a few times, and I dreamed about making the dish at home. 

Ragu is an Italian pasta sauce made with ground or braised meats, vegetables and tomatoes. In my version, a sauce that can be labor-intensive is made into a weeknight-friendly dish with ground pork and packaged pasta. Take the time to slowly cook onions, garlic and carrots with herbs and tomato paste, creating a rich, flavorful base for the dish. Into that, stir in the ground pork and then a good amount of whole, peeled Italian tomatoes. I covered the pot and let it simmer, then poured in a cup or so of the liquid from the pasta pot. That starchy water adds body and seasoning and helps the sauce stick to the pasta. The night I cooked the ragu, it was dark and downright mean outside. As people came home, each and every one of them wondered about the magical smell coming from the pot, and the warm bowls of meaty noodles disappointed no one. It’s a wintertime hit. 
Just as I was brimming with excitement to arrive in New York, after our third day I was longing for home. I do love it there, for its energy, art, tall buildings and above all, the melting pot of foods. The privilege and gift of traveling to such a magical place will be part of my kitchen and cooking journey at home for a long time to come.

Brussels sprouts and chorizo, inspired by a tapas restaurant in NYC.

Spanish-Style Brussels Sprouts with Sausage
Serves 4

Olive oil
1 pound Spanish chorizo or chourico, casing removed and crumbled (see note)
1 small red onion, trimmed, peeled and sliced thin
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon honey
Flat leaf parsley
Crusty bread, for serving

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

• In a large oven-safe skillet set over a medium-low flame, heat a swirl of olive oil. Cook the chorizo, stirring, until the edges are crisp. Remove to a plate and set aside. If there is more than a few tablespoons of oil in the pan, drain some of the fat, leaving about 1 tablespoon. Return the pan to medium-low heat and cook the onion with the rosemary, paprika and salt until it’s very soft. Nestle the Brussels sprouts into the onions, cut side down. Cook for a few minutes. Stir in the vinegar and the honey and mix well. 

• Slide the pan into the oven and roast for 20 minutes, stirring once halfway through. 

• Garnish with the parsley and serve hot with bread. 

Note: Chorizo is a Spanish-style sausage that is made from pork and is spiced with paprika. I purchased chourico, which is the Portuguese version of chorizo. The Gaspars brand was available in my local grocery. Though the package comes labeled as spicy, we find it to be flavorful but not hot. 

Pappardelle with Pork Ragu
Serves 4

Olive oil
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
2 medium carrots, scrubbed and diced
2 tablespoons tomato paste
Kosher salt
1 pound ground pork
1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes
1 teaspoon each dried rosemary and fennel seeds
2 teaspoons dried basil
12 ounces pappardelle
1 cup reserved pasta cooking water
Parmesan cheese, for serving

• In a Dutch oven set over medium heat, add a swirl of olive oil. Cook the onion until soft, then add the garlic, carrots and tomato paste. Season with a generous pinch of salt. Cook, stirring, until soft, about five more minutes. Add the pork and cook, breaking it up with a wooden spoon. When the pork is no longer pink, add the tomatoes and herbs. Bring to a gentle simmer and use a potato masher to break up the tomatoes a bit. Cover and cook for 20 minutes to let the flavors meld. 

• Meanwhile, cook the pasta in a pot of generously salted water according to the directions for al dente. Before draining, reserve one cup of the cooking water. 

• Stir the pasta cooking water into the ragu and mix well. Taste and add more salt if desired. 

• Serve the sauce over the pasta and pass Parmesan cheese at the table.