New Beginnings + Fall Flavors

It’s been many years since we had a first day of school in our house, the kind of first day where there are new shoes, a new backpack and sharpened pencils. You know, the day that’s a big deal, a new beginning, a source of excitement. And even though it’s been a long time since that kind of day, I cannot help but always feel like September is a time for shiny new folders, clean lunch boxes and most importantly, fresh ideas and learning and beginnings. 

The source of new things around here, now that I’m not waving and blowing kisses (even long after they asked me not to) to sweet faces in the window of a yellow school bus, isn’t in new teachers and new schedules but in new ventures and horizons for me. 

This fall, I decided to leave my beloved job, the one where I work with seniors in the nonprofit world, and break out on my own. Perhaps it’s a coincidence that it happened in my favorite season, the best food season, and my instinctual time of renewal and change. Maybe it is just that the time is right.  

In the spirit of new, I continue on my quest to learn about new flavors, new ingredients and new recipes. Right now, I’m combining the best of the season with creative techniques and flavors. I’m hoping you find something new and inspiring here, too. 

Broccoli is a little like chicken for me: it’s easy to prepare, goes with almost anything, is palatable by all. But broccoli is better than chicken. It’s green, after all, and has way more personality. Broccoli is in season now, so you can find it easily at the farmer’s market. I like that I can drop a head of broccoli into my basket without much thought, knowing it will be used in the upcoming week in a stir fry, or soup, steamed and happy in a grain salad or, as it is here, dressed beautifully (yet simply) for a side dish that could accompany most any dinner. To make this roasted broccoli dish, start by cutting up the head into florets, then slicing each of those in half. It’s important to have a flat side to each piece, as that lays against the pan and gets crispy and browned (crispy and browned equals delicious). The magic happens when broccoli is tender on the inside and nicely browned around the edges. You can call me a broccoli geek, but I think golden, roasted broccoli is one of the best things, ever. But, wait! It gets better. While the broccoli roasts, take the time to make tahini sauce: soak chopped garlic in lemon juice, then whisk that juice together with tahini and warm water. You’ll end up with dreamy, creamy sauce to soak into the roasted bits of caramelized broccoli. There, I did it. I’ve geeked out over broccoli. 

Apple tart. It's apple season!

Moving on, there’s also a recipe here for the first fall soup I made this year. The first pot of soup is kind of a big deal (for me, I mean). It’s a talisman and the token of all the fall and winter cooking ahead, just like the first ice cream of the season from the Tastee-Freez. It’s a sign of all the good things the coming season has to bring. This particular pot of soup has lots of meaty, spiced bites from a hefty amount of chorizo that’s sauteed first in a hefty pot. Into the sausage drippings goes plenty of onions and garlic, whole tomatoes and small, waxy potatoes that turn tender and creamy when simmered in broth. The recipe calls for a bottle of clam juice, which makes it all taste briny. And just like the smallest breeze when you’re sitting by the shore, it gives a gentle taste of the sea. A bowl of this soup makes me feel like our summer vacation isn’t quite as far away as it seems (10 months and counting!) We eat Manhattan Clam Chowder for dinner with a green salad and warm bread on weeknights. It was good in lunchboxes, too.

Lastly, I’ve included a recipe for an apple tart. September is apple season in New York and all proper New Yorkers are picking, baking, eating and generally thinking about apples now more than at any other time of year. In our house, apples are a staple all year but fall is when we love them best. I made this tart with a variety of apples: a few Honeycrisps and two Granny Smiths. I like to use at least one green apple in any apple dessert I make, because its crisp tartness balances the sweetness of the other types. The apples are tossed in the usual apple pie mixture of cinnamon and sugar, with dots of butter on top. I spread a few tablespoons of raspberry jam over all, for gloss and an extra bit of flavor. (Apple tart recipes typically call for apricot jam, but I didn’t have that and raspberry works just as well.) I changed up the pie crust from my usual butter-flour-cold water approach. Here, I pulsed together the flour with a bit of sugar, butter and an egg. The result is a pie crust that isn’t flaky but more resembles a sugar cookie. My kids would say this is being “extra.” An apple pie doesn’t need to have a sugar cookie crust, but it’s a tiny bit sweet and a little unexpected and makes the tart all-around delicious.

I decided to buy myself a new binder and a fresh box of pencils, to celebrate and embrace this new chapter in my life. And what will I do with myself? I have big plans and lots of dreams. Instead of working for someone else, I’ll be working for myself, teaching people how to cook, making food, writing and just about anything else that will pay the bills. It’s a tiny bit scary, to say goodbye to the steady job (and the paycheck). But I have my husband, Paul, for support and I’m leaning more into the excitement than the fear. 

There’s personal stuff too, like taking care of my parents, drawing and painting, and being a tiny bit better at managing my house. Top of the list is spending time with my granddaughter Frankie. She turned nine months old this month, and we all know that soon, she’ll be putting on new shoes and boarding the school bus for kindergarten. I’ll be there, waving and blowing kisses as she goes.

Roasted Broccoli with Tahini

Roasted Broccoli with Lemon-Tahini Drizzle
Serves 5

1 large head broccoli, trimmed
Olive oil
Kosher salt
2 garlic cloves, chopped
Juice of 1 lemon
1/3 cup tahini
Pinch salt
½ teaspoon cumin
Warm water
Toasted sesame seeds, for serving

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Cut the broccoli into florets, then slice each floret in half. Put the broccoli in a large bowl and toss with enough olive oil to generously coat, about ¼ cup. Spread the broccoli out evenly on the baking sheet and season all with a generous sprinkle of salt. Be sure to turn the pieces over so the flat part is laying flat on the baking sheet. Roast in the bottom part of the oven for 25 minutes total, rotating the pan halfway through. The florets should be tender and browned all over. Remove from the oven and set aside. 

Meanwhile, make the tahini drizzle. Combine the garlic and lemon in a small glass bowl. Allow to marinate for about 15 minutes, then strain and discard the garlic. In a larger non-reactive bowl, whisk together the lemon juice mixture with the tahini, salt, cumin and water, about one tablespoon at a time, until smooth, creamy and a pourable consistency. 

Drizzle a few tablespoons tahini over the top, reserving the rest for dipping. Garnish with the toasted sesame seeds and serve. Best at room temperature. 

Manhattan Clam Chowder with Chorizo and Herbs
Serves 5

Olive oil
14 ounces chorizo sausage, casings removed, crumbled (see note)
1 red onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes
1 pound small waxy potatoes
1 quart chicken broth
1 8-ounce bottle clam juice
2 10-ounce cans baby clams, with their juice
1 small handful fresh herbs (I used a mix of tarragon, basil and rosemary)
Salt and pepper, to taste

In a large pot set over a medium low flame, heat a swirl of olive oil. Add the chorizo crumbles and cook, stirring, until the edges start to turn brown and the meat crisps. Use a slotted spoon to remove the sausage to a plate and set aside. 

Add the onion to the pot and cook until it’s translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for two minutes more. Season with salt. Stir in the tomatoes and use a potato masher to squish and break them up, then add the potatoes, chicken broth and clam juice. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until the potatoes are almost tender. Stir in the clams and the sausage and cook a few minutes more. 

Stir in the herbs and season to taste with more salt and fresh ground pepper. Serve hot. 

Note: I used chorizo purchased from the local grocery store here. You can use Chorizo, linguica or even spicy Italian sausage. 

Apple Tart with a Sugar Cookie Crust
Makes one 9-inch tart

2 cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons sugar
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup unsalted butter, melted
1 egg
5 apples (a variety of apples is best)
2 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
Pinch salt
3 tablespoons jam (raspberry, strawberry, apricot, etc.)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and grease a 9-inch tart pan. In a food processor, combine the flour, sugar, salt, limited butter and egg. Pulse until pea-sized crumbles form, about 5-6 times. Spread the mixture into the prepared tart pan and press evenly along the bottom and up the sides of the pan. 

Peel, core and slice the apples into pieces ⅛-inch thick. Combine the apples with the sugar, cinnamon and pinch of salt in a large bowl and toss to combine. Spread the apples into the prepared pie crust and fuss with them a bit, to spread evenly and fill in any gaps. 

Microwave the jam for 30 seconds, or until liquidy. Use a spoon to drizzle the jam over all the apples. Dot the top of the tart with the butter. 

Bake for 30 minutes, or until the top is bubbly and the edges of the apples are turning brown. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely. Cut into wedges and serve. This tart is best cold.